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Kuhar Tre Ghoshal: Več kot molekularni

Kuhar Tre Ghoshal: Več kot molekularni


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Tre Ghoshal bi lahko imel v svoji restavraciji Adara v Montclairju v New Yorku potopne obtočne črpalke, dehidratorje in rešetke, vendar ne govori samo o zvokih in piščalkah molekularne gastronomije. 30-letni kuhar in podjetnik je prav tako dobro utemeljen na kulinaričnih osnovah: Je eden od 65 certificiranih kuharskih mojstrov v državi, kar je Ameriška kulinarična zveza podelila po tem, ko je po vsem opravil naporno osemdnevno kulinarično preizkušnjo. spretnost in znanje.

Sin priseljencev iz indijske zvezne države Zahodni Bengal je Ghoshal svojo restavracijo, ki jo je odprl oktobra lani, poimenoval v sanskrtski besedi "ljubezen".

"To je res moj izraz," pravi Ghoshal o restavraciji. "Vsaka posoda ima svojo zgodbo."

Ghoshalova lastna zgodba se ni začela z ljubeznijo do hrane. Čeprav je že kot najstnik delal v kuhinjah, je resnično cenil hrano, medtem ko je študiral zgodovino in politične vede na univerzi Humboldt v mestu Arcata na severu Kalifornije, dve uri vožnje od doline Napa. Med študijem je delal v sobi Rib v gostilni Eureka v bližnjem mestu Eureka pod vodstvom Marka Campbella, varovanca legendarnega kuharja Thomasa Kellerja.

"To je res odvrnilo smer moje hrane," je dejal Ghoshal.

Nadaljeval je s kulinarično šolo na Umetniškem inštitutu v New Yorku, nato pa končal z delom v Nouveau Sushiju v Montclairju v NJ, kjer je pridobil poglobljene izkušnje z japonsko kuhinjo. Bil je tudi kuhar v Rotundi pri Neiman Marcusu v Paramusu v NJ in v Savoy Grill v Newarku v NJ.

Te izkušnje in indijska hrana, na kateri je odraščal, navdihujejo hrano v Adari, prav tako pa tudi avantgardni kuharji, od katerih črpa navdih.

Ghoshal je o svoji hrani in svojih načrtih za prihodnost razpravljal z Nation's Restaurant News.

Vaši publicisti so vašo hrano opisali kot "molekularno kuhinjo". Kako ga opisujete?

Poudarek je na ravnovesju in profilu okusa s stopnjo udobja. Je zemeljski in ima naraven občutek.

Ta restavracija je vizija, ki sem jo razvila po zadnjih 16 letih poslovanja.

POVEZANE:
• Frank Stitt razmišlja o južni kulinarični sceni
• Shaun Doty razpravlja o novem konceptu piščanca
• David Chang na priljubljeni jedi kimchi

Ampak ti si star komaj 30 let.

Začel sem kot pomivalni stroj in šel skozi celotno paleto.

A ste vseeno hodili v kulinarično šolo?

Mislil sem, da potrebujem birokracijo za napredovanje v karieri. Na moji posebni poti se je stopnja izkazala za nepomembno, vendar jo priporočam 98 odstotkov ljudi, ki želijo biti kuharji.

Zakaj?

Danes si vsi tako hitro želijo in mislim, da si moraš na prsih tako rekoč zrasti. Teoretičnemu razvoju kot kuhar je treba dati nekaj spoštovanja.


Kulinarični cirkus, sveže iz laboratorija

OBrok v mesečni restavraciji Adara je cirkus s tremi obroči-ali petimi obročki, ali sedmimi ali celo 12, odvisno od tega, koliko tečajev naročite.

Navdušite nad neverjetnim balonom iz mozzarelle! Nejeverno opazujte, kako se iz vašega guacamola dviga dim hikorija! Okusite peno "globokomorski veter"!

In cirkus morda ni edina analogija, ki se vam pojavi. Jedi v Adari s svojo bleščečo paleto rumenih in vijoličnih, zank in vrtinčic in zvezdnih izbruhov vas lahko spominjajo na platna na razstavi Matisse.

Ali bolj natančno, periodni sistem elementov. Tre Ghoshal, 30-letni kuhar in lastnik Adare, je v Montclair prinesel znanstvene tehnike in kemijsko-laboratorijsko opremo molekularne gastronomije, zahtevno avantgardno disciplino, ki jo je proslavil španski kuhar Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adarina kuhinja je napolnjena z aeratorji, dehidratorji, dimnimi pištolami, potopnimi obtoki in zlobnim instrumentom, imenovanim Anti-Griddle, ki zmrzne hrano, namesto da bi jo skuhala. Ta pena morskega vetra je gaziran sok školjk, restavracijski balon mozzarella v restavraciji, izum pionirskega kuharja iz Chicaga Grant Achatz, je narejen z razstreljevanjem ogljikovega dioksida v kroglico sirove skute.

G. Ghoshal (izgovorjen kot GOSH-ul) navaja oba kuharja kot navdih, skupaj z Wyliejem Dufresnejem iz WD-50 v Spodnjem Manhattnu, in ne skriva svojih ambicij, da bi se jim pridružil kot kulinarično ime. "Vem, da sem mlad," je dejal v nedavnem intervjuju, "vendar sem večji del svojega življenja preživel v kuhinji. Hočem Michelinove zvezdice. Pripravljen sem na to. "

Dejansko je hotel odpreti Adaro v New Yorku, vendar ni mogel zbrati sredstev. New Jerseyan, ki je imel prvo vrhunsko kuharsko službo v severni Kaliforniji, je bil glavni kuhar v več restavracijah v svoji matični državi, med drugim v Nouveau Sushiju tukaj v Montclairju-"mestu, ki se ukvarja s hrano", je dejal, da upa, bo imel dovolj pustolovskih obiskovalcev, da bo njegova nova restavracija postala hit.

Zgodnje donosnosti so bile mešane. Pred kratkim v četrtek zvečer, ko smo se odpravili na vzorčenje cene Adare-ne da bi opravili celovit pregled-je bilo zapolnjenih le približno ducat od 52 sedežev Adara. "Montclair je ob delavnikih zelo težak," je dejal gospod Ghoshal.

Adara (sanskrtski izraz za spoštovanje in razširitev ljubezni) zaseda eleganten in udoben, a strog prostor, ki je bil Passionné. G. Ghoshal in njegova posadka so mu naredili popolno preobrazbo z zemeljskimi oblogami, stenami iz brunanega lesa in v kotu majhnim barom za samostojne večerje ali pare.

Restavracija nima licence za alkoholne pijače, zato pijače prinašajo svoje vino in neonsko osvetljeno paleto mocktails, kot je Zengria: zeleni čaj, limonska trava, zelišče kava kava in sladkorni bombaž yuzu.

Naša miza ni poskusila mocktails. Na krožnikih se je dogajalo marsikaj - če ne preveč.

Naročili smo "turnejo" s sedmimi hodi, pri 105 USD vsak tečaj ponuja izbiro dveh jedi, tako da sta dva večerjalca lahko poskusila vseh 14. Izkazalo se je, da je to neverjetno množica nenavadno iznajdljivih izmišljotin, ki so bile vse prej kot zabavne, ampak pogosto manj kot vsota njihovih delov.

Balon z mozzarello je bil na primer del jedi, imenovane Campania. Na njem so bile rezine brezhibnega, sladkega paradižnika iz dediščine in rožnata bazilika v balzamičnem kisu - brezčasna kombinacija, ki ni imela koristi niti od balona, ​​ki je imel približno teksturo gumijaste rokavice, niti od kroglice oljčnega olja, ki ni imela nobenega okusa njegove imenovane sestavine.

Takšne jedi so obenem tudi odlična hrana: želatina, bombažni bonboni in siri ter kremasti piškoti, ki krasijo številne Adarine jedi, vsebujejo veliko kalorij. "O, moj bog," je rekel sotekmovalec, potem ko je poliral kaznovalno bogato torto z modrim sirom Maytag, preplavljeno z zdrobljenimi orehi. "Prešli smo le dva tečaja!"

In to lahko oteži ohranjanje osredotočenosti in apetita pri tretjem tečaju, kot je ducina raca (račje prsi in naribana raca v maki zvitkih), četrta kot ovojnica iz belih tartufov (testenine s tartufi, ki obdajajo foie gras, z bujno kumquat mostardo na strani) in peti kot svinjski trebuh s petimi okusi, vključno s toplim gorčičnim "sladoledom", stabiliziranim z zgoščevalcem metilceluloze.

Naš šesti in najboljši tečaj je ponudil težko izbiro med dvema zelo nežnima jedma: črno trsko v juhi, podobni kaši, med drugim s čudovito ostrim hrustljavim brstičnim ohrovtom ali jagnječjim epikom, mariniranim v harissi in medu ter kuhanim sous videjem, s sredozemskim spremljave, kot so kovani kozji jogurt, baba ghanouj in samo en nepotreben razcvet, zobno boleča sladka piramida iz ohranjene limonine bombažne bonbone (milost!).

Za sladico je nepričakovana in osvežilna izbira sorbet iz kumaric-shiso, čeprav prihaja z drobci steklenih bonbonov yuzu-ingver, ki se pred taljenjem neprijetno prilepijo na zobe.

Molekularna gastronomija ni nova ideja. Na sceno je prišel pred desetletjem, deloma pa se je počasi ujel, ker je tako delovno intenziven-vsi ti geli, plasti in emulzije prispevajo k veliki pripravi osebja in visokim cenam na jedilniku-in v del zato, ker tudi prefinjeni gostje raje poznajo avantgardo. Venue, vrhunska restavracija v Hobokenu, ki se je leta 2005 odprla v precej ugodnejšem gospodarstvu, je trajala le eno leto.

Toda kot vsako živahno dejanje je lahko tudi to, ko uspe, nepozabno, to je izkušnja, ki jo gospod Ghoshal pričakuje v Montclairju. Kot je v telefonskem intervjuju povedal gospod Achatz, kuhar iz Chicaga: "Bistvo je v tem, da se ustvari občutek" gee whiz ", čudenja. Želimo, da ljudje rečejo: 'Kako so naredi to? '"


Kulinarični cirkus, sveže iz laboratorija

OBrok v mesečni restavraciji Adara je cirkus s tremi obročki-ali petimi obročki, ali sedmimi ali celo 12, odvisno od tega, koliko tečajev naročite.

Navdušite nad neverjetnim balonom iz mozzarelle! Nejeverno opazujte, kako se iz vašega guacamola dviga dim hikorija! Okusite peno "globokomorski veter"!

In cirkus morda ni edina analogija, ki se vam pojavi. Jedi v Adari s svojo bleščečo paleto rumenih in vijoličnih, zank in vrtinčic in zvezdnih izbruhov vas lahko spominjajo na platna na razstavi Matisse.

Ali bolj natančno, periodni sistem elementov. Tre Ghoshal, 30-letni kuhar in lastnik Adare, je v Montclair prinesel znanstvene tehnike in kemijsko-laboratorijsko opremo molekularne gastronomije, zahtevno avantgardno disciplino, ki jo je proslavil španski kuhar Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adarina kuhinja je napolnjena z aeratorji, dehidratorji, dimnimi pištolami, potopnimi obtoki in zlobnim instrumentom, imenovanim Anti-Griddle, ki zmrzne hrano, namesto da bi jo skuhala. Ta pena morskega vetra je gaziran sok školjk, restavracijski balon mozzarella v restavraciji, izum pionirskega kuharja iz Chicaga Grant Achatz, je narejen z razstreljevanjem ogljikovega dioksida v kroglico sirove skute.

G. Ghoshal (izgovorjen kot GOSH-ul) navaja oba kuharja kot navdih, skupaj z Wyliejem Dufresnejem iz WD-50 v Spodnjem Manhattnu, in ne skriva svojih ambicij, da bi se jim pridružil kot kulinarično ime. "Vem, da sem mlad," je dejal v nedavnem intervjuju, "vendar sem večji del svojega življenja preživel v kuhinji. Hočem Michelinove zvezdice. Pripravljen sem na to. "

Dejansko je hotel odpreti Adaro v New Yorku, vendar ni mogel zbrati sredstev. New Jerseyan, ki je imel prvo vrhunsko kuharsko službo v severni Kaliforniji, je bil glavni kuhar v več restavracijah v svoji matični državi, med drugim v Nouveau Sushiju tukaj v Montclairju-"mestu, ki se ukvarja s hrano", je dejal, da upa, bo imel dovolj pustolovskih obiskovalcev, da bo njegova nova restavracija postala hit.

Zgodnje donosnosti so bile mešane. Pred kratkim v četrtek zvečer, ko smo se odpravili na vzorčenje cene Adare-ne da bi opravili celovit pregled-je bilo zapolnjenih le približno ducat od 52 sedežev Adara. "Montclair je ob delavnikih zelo težak," je dejal gospod Ghoshal.

Adara (sanskrtski izraz za spoštovanje in razširitev ljubezni) zaseda eleganten in udoben, a strog prostor, ki je bil Passionné. G. Ghoshal in njegova posadka so mu naredili popolno preobrazbo z zemeljskimi oblogami, stenami iz brunanega lesa in v kotu majhnim barom za samostojne večerje ali pare.

Restavracija nima licence za alkoholne pijače, zato pijače prinašajo svoje vino in neonsko osvetljeno paleto mocktails, kot je Zengria: zeleni čaj, limonska trava, zelišče kava kava in sladkorni bombaž yuzu.

Naša miza ni poskusila mocktails. Na krožnikih se je dogajalo marsikaj - če ne preveč.

Naročili smo "turnejo" s sedmimi hodi, pri 105 USD vsak tečaj ponuja izbiro dveh jedi, tako da sta dva večerjalca lahko poskusila vseh 14. Izkazalo se je, da je to neverjetno množica nenavadno iznajdljivih izmišljotin, ki so bile vse prej kot zabavne, ampak pogosto manj kot vsota njihovih delov.

Balon z mozzarello je bil na primer del jedi, imenovane Campania. Na njem so bile rezine brezhibnega, sladkega paradižnikovega paradižnika in rožnata bazilika v balzamičnem kisu - brezčasna kombinacija, ki ni imela koristi niti od balona, ​​ki je imel približno teksturo gumijaste rokavice, niti od kroglice oljčnega olja, ki ji ni primanjkovalo okusa njegove imenovane sestavine.

Takšne jedi so obenem tudi odlična hrana: želatina, bombažni bonboni in siri ter kremasti piškoti, ki krasijo številne Adarine jedi, vsebujejo veliko kalorij. "O, moj bog," je rekel sotekmovalec, potem ko je poliral kaznovalno bogato torto z modrim sirom Maytag, preplavljeno z zdrobljenimi orehi. "Prešli smo le dva tečaja!"

In to lahko oteži ohranjanje osredotočenosti in apetita pri tretjem tečaju, kot je ducina raca (račje prsi in naribana raca v maki zvitkih), četrta kot ovojnica iz belih tartufov (testenine s tartufi, ki obdajajo foie gras, z bujno kumquat mostardo na strani) in peti kot svinjski trebuh s petimi okusi, vključno s toplim gorčičnim "sladoledom", stabiliziranim z zgoščevalcem metilceluloze.

Naš šesti in najboljši tečaj je ponudil težko izbiro med dvema zelo nežnima jedma: črno trsko v juhi, podobni kaši, med drugim s čudovito ostrim hrustljavim brstičnim ohrovtom ali jagnječjim epikom, mariniranim v harissi in medu ter kuhanim sous videjem, s sredozemskim spremljave, kot so kovani kozji jogurt, baba ghanouj in samo en nepotreben razcvet, zobno boleča sladka piramida iz ohranjene limonine bombažne bonbone (milost!).

Za sladico je nepričakovana in osvežilna izbira sorbet iz kumaric-shiso, čeprav prihaja z drobci steklenih bonbonov yuzu-ingver, ki se pred taljenjem neprijetno prilepijo na zobe.

Molekularna gastronomija ni nova ideja. Na sceno je prišel pred desetletjem, deloma pa se je počasi ujel, ker je tako delovno intenziven-vsi ti geli, plasti in emulzije prispevajo k veliki pripravi osebja in visokim cenam na jedilniku-in v del zato, ker tudi prefinjeni gostje raje poznajo kot avantgardo. Venue, vrhunska restavracija v Hobokenu, ki se je leta 2005 odprla v precej ugodnejšem gospodarstvu, je trajala le eno leto.

Toda tako kot vsako živahno dejanje je lahko tudi to, ko mu to uspe, nepozabno, to je izkušnja, ki jo gospod Ghoshal pričakuje v Montclairju. Kot je v telefonskem intervjuju povedal gospod Achatz, kuhar iz Chicaga: "Bistvo je v tem, da se ustvari občutek" gee whiz ", čudenja. Želimo, da ljudje rečejo: 'Kako so se obnesli naredi to? '"


Kulinarični cirkus, sveže iz laboratorija

OBrok v mesečni restavraciji Adara je cirkus s tremi obroči-ali petimi obročki, ali sedmimi ali celo 12, odvisno od tega, koliko tečajev naročite.

Navdušite nad neverjetnim balonom iz mozzarelle! Nejeverno opazujte, kako se iz vašega guacamola dviga dim hikorija! Okusite peno "globokomorski veter"!

In cirkus morda ni edina analogija, ki se vam pojavi. Jedi v Adari s svojo bleščečo paleto rumenih in vijoličnih, zank in vrtinčic in zvezdnih izbruhov vas lahko spominjajo na platna na razstavi Matisse.

Ali bolj natančno, periodni sistem elementov. Tre Ghoshal, 30-letni kuhar in lastnik Adare, je v Montclair prinesel znanstvene tehnike in kemijsko-laboratorijsko opremo molekularne gastronomije, zahtevno avantgardno disciplino, ki jo je proslavil španski kuhar Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adarina kuhinja je napolnjena s prezračevalniki, dehidratorji, dimnimi pištolami, potopnimi obtoki in zlobnim zvokom, imenovanim Anti-Griddle, ki zmrzne hrano, namesto da bi jo skuhala. Ta pena morskega vetra je gaziran sok školjk, restavracijski balon mozzarella v restavraciji, izum pionirskega kuharja iz Chicaga Grant Achatz, je narejen z razstreljevanjem ogljikovega dioksida v kroglico sirove skute.

G. Ghoshal (izgovorjen kot GOSH-ul) navaja oba kuharja kot navdih, skupaj z Wyliejem Dufresnejem iz WD-50 v Spodnjem Manhattnu, in ne skriva svojih ambicij, da bi se jim pridružil kot kulinarično ime. "Vem, da sem mlad," je dejal v nedavnem intervjuju, "vendar sem večji del svojega življenja preživel v kuhinji. Hočem Michelinove zvezdice. Pripravljen sem na to. "

Dejansko je hotel odpreti Adaro v New Yorku, vendar ni mogel zbrati sredstev. New Jerseyan, ki je imel prvo vrhunsko kuharsko službo v severni Kaliforniji, je bil glavni kuhar v več restavracijah v svoji matični državi, med drugim v Nouveau Sushiju tukaj v Montclairju-"mestu, ki se ukvarja s hrano", je dejal, da upa, bo imel dovolj pustolovskih obiskovalcev, da bo njegova nova restavracija postala hit.

Zgodnje donosnosti so bile mešane. Pred kratkim v četrtek zvečer, ko smo se oglasili pri Adari, da ne bi opravili celovitega pregleda, je bilo zapolnjenih le ducat od 52 Adarinih sedežev. "Montclair je ob delavnikih zelo težak," je dejal gospod Ghoshal.

Adara (sanskrtski izraz za spoštovanje in razširitev ljubezen) zaseda eleganten in udoben, če strog prostor, ki je bil Passionné. G. Ghoshal in njegova posadka so mu naredili popolno preobrazbo z obarvanimi stenami v zemeljskih barvah, tlemi iz poliranega lesa in v kotu majhnim šankom za samostojne večerje ali pare.

Restavracija nima licence za alkoholne pijače, zato pijače prinašajo svoje vino in neonsko osvetljeno paleto mocktails, kot je Zengria: zeleni čaj, limonska trava, zelišče kava kava in sladkorni bombaž yuzu.

Naša miza ni poskusila mocktails. Na krožnikih se je dogajalo marsikaj - če ne preveč.

Naročili smo "turnejo" s sedmimi hodi, pri 105 USD vsak tečaj ponuja izbiro dveh jedi, tako da sta dva večerjalca lahko poskusila vseh 14. Izkazalo se je, da je to neverjetno množica nenavadno iznajdljivih izmišljotin, ki so bile vse prej kot zabavne, ampak pogosto manj kot vsota njihovih delov.

Balon z mozzarello je bil na primer del jedi, imenovane Campania. Na njem so bile rezine brezhibnega, sladkega paradižnikovega paradižnika in rožnata bazilika v balzamičnem kisu - brezčasna kombinacija, ki ni imela koristi niti od balona, ​​ki je imel približno teksturo gumijaste rokavice, niti od kroglice oljčnega olja, ki ji ni primanjkovalo okusa njegove imenovane sestavine.

Takšne jedi so obenem tudi odlična hrana: želatina, bombažni bonboni in siri ter kremasti piškoti, ki krasijo številne Adarine jedi, vsebujejo veliko kalorij. "O, moj bog," je rekel sotekmovalec, potem ko je poliral kaznovalno bogato torto z modrim sirom Maytag, preplavljeno z zdrobljenimi orehi. "Prešli smo le dva tečaja!"

In to lahko oteži ohranitev osredotočenosti in apetita pri tretjem tečaju, kot je raca duo (račje prsi in naribana raca v maki zvitkih), četrta kot ovojnica iz belega tartufa (testenine s tartufi, ki obdajajo foie gras, z bujno kumquat mostardo na strani) in petina, podobna svinjskemu trebuhu s petimi okusi, vključno s toplim gorčičnim "sladoledom", stabiliziranim z zgoščevalcem metilceluloze.

Naš šesti in najboljši tečaj je ponudil težko izbiro med dvema zelo nežnima jedma: črno trsko v juhi, podobni kaši, med drugim s čudovito ostrim hrustljavim brstičnim ohrovtom ali jagnječjim epikom, mariniranim v harissi in medu ter kuhanim sous videjem, s sredozemskim spremljave, kot je kovan kozji jogurt, baba ghanouj in le en nepotreben razcvet, zobno boleča sladka piramida iz ohranjene limonine bombažne bonbone (milost!).

Za sladico je nepričakovana in osvežilna izbira sorbet iz kumaric-shiso, čeprav prihaja z drobci steklenih bonbonov yuzu-ingver, ki se pred taljenjem neprijetno prilepijo na zobe.

Molekularna gastronomija ni nova ideja. Na sceno je prišel pred desetletjem, deloma pa se je počasi ujel, ker je tako delovno intenziven-vsi ti geli, plasti in emulzije prispevajo k veliki pripravi osebja in visokim cenam na jedilniku-in v del zato, ker tudi prefinjeni gostje raje poznajo kot avantgardo. Venue, vrhunska restavracija v Hobokenu, ki se je leta 2005 odprla v precej ugodnejšem gospodarstvu, je trajala le eno leto.

Toda tako kot vsako živahno dejanje je lahko tudi to, ko mu to uspe, nepozabno, to je izkušnja, ki jo gospod Ghoshal pričakuje v Montclairju. Kot je v telefonskem intervjuju povedal gospod Achatz, kuhar iz Chicaga: "Bistvo je v tem, da se ustvari občutek" gee whiz ", čudenja. Želimo, da ljudje rečejo: 'Kako so se obnesli naredi to? '"


Kulinarični cirkus, sveže iz laboratorija

OBrok v mesečni restavraciji Adara je cirkus s tremi obroči-ali petimi obročki, ali sedmimi ali celo 12, odvisno od tega, koliko tečajev naročite.

Navdušite nad neverjetnim balonom iz mozzarelle! Nejeverno opazujte, kako se iz vašega guacamola dviga dim hikorija! Okusite peno "globokomorski veter"!

In cirkus morda ni edina analogija, ki se vam pojavi. Jedi v Adari s svojo bleščečo paleto rumenih in vijoličnih, zank in vrtinčic in zvezdnih izbruhov vas lahko spominjajo na platna na razstavi Matisse.

Ali bolj natančno, periodni sistem elementov. Tre Ghoshal, 30-letni kuhar in lastnik Adare, je v Montclair prinesel znanstvene tehnike in kemijsko-laboratorijsko opremo molekularne gastronomije, zahtevno avantgardno disciplino, ki jo je proslavil španski kuhar Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adarina kuhinja je napolnjena s prezračevalniki, dehidratorji, dimnimi pištolami, potopnimi obtoki in zlobnim zvokom, imenovanim Anti-Griddle, ki zmrzne hrano, namesto da bi jo skuhala. Ta pena morskega vetra je gaziran sok školjk, restavracijski balon mozzarella v restavraciji, izum pionirskega kuharja iz Chicaga Grant Achatz, je narejen z razstreljevanjem ogljikovega dioksida v kroglico sirove skute.

G. Ghoshal (izgovorjen kot GOSH-ul) navaja oba kuharja kot navdih, skupaj z Wyliejem Dufresnejem iz WD-50 v Spodnjem Manhattnu, in ne skriva svojih ambicij, da bi se jim pridružil kot kulinarično ime. "Vem, da sem mlad," je dejal v nedavnem intervjuju, "vendar sem večji del svojega življenja preživel v kuhinji. Hočem Michelinove zvezdice. Pripravljen sem na to. "

Dejansko je hotel odpreti Adaro v New Yorku, vendar ni mogel zbrati sredstev. New Jerseyan, ki je imel prvo vrhunsko kuharsko službo v severni Kaliforniji, je bil izvršni kuhar v več restavracijah v svoji domovini, med drugim v Nouveau Sushiju tukaj v Montclairju-"mestu, ki se ukvarja s hrano", je dejal, da upa, bo imel dovolj pustolovskih obiskovalcev, da bo njegova nova restavracija postala hit.

Zgodnje donosnosti so bile mešane. Pred kratkim v četrtek zvečer, ko smo se oglasili pri Adari, da ne bi opravili celovitega pregleda, je bilo zapolnjenih le ducat od 52 Adarinih sedežev. "Montclair je ob delavnikih zelo težak," je dejal gospod Ghoshal.

Adara (sanskrtski izraz za spoštovanje in razširitev ljubezni) zaseda eleganten in udoben, a strog prostor, ki je bil Passionné. G. Ghoshal in njegova posadka so mu naredili popolno preobrazbo z obarvanimi stenami v zemeljskih barvah, tlemi iz poliranega lesa in v kotu majhnim šankom za samostojne večerje ali pare.

Restavracija nima licence za alkoholne pijače, zato pijače prinašajo svoje vino in neonsko osvetljeno paleto mocktails, kot je Zengria: zeleni čaj, limonska trava, zelišče kava kava in sladkorni bombaž yuzu.

Naša miza ni poskusila mocktails. Na krožnikih se je dogajalo marsikaj - če ne preveč.

Naročili smo "turnejo" s sedmimi hodi, pri 105 USD vsak tečaj ponuja izbiro dveh jedi, tako da sta dva večerjalca lahko poskusila vseh 14. Izkazalo se je, da je to neverjetno množica nenavadno iznajdljivih izmišljotin, ki so bile vse prej kot zabavne, ampak pogosto manj kot vsota njihovih delov.

Balon z mozzarello je bil na primer del jedi, imenovane Campania. Na njem so bile rezine brezhibnega, sladkega paradižnika iz dediščine in rožnata bazilika v balzamičnem kisu - brezčasna kombinacija, ki ni imela koristi niti od balona, ​​ki je imel približno teksturo gumijaste rokavice, niti od kroglice oljčnega olja, ki ni imela nobenega okusa njegove imenovane sestavine.

Takšne jedi so obenem tudi odlična hrana: želatina in bombažni bonboni ter siri in kremasti piškoti, ki krasijo številne Adarine jedi, vsebujejo veliko kalorij. "O, moj bog," je rekel sogovornik, potem ko je poliral kaznovalno bogato torto z modrim sirom Maytag, preplavljeno z zdrobljenimi orehi. "Prešli smo le dva tečaja!"

In to lahko oteži ohranitev osredotočenosti in apetita pri tretjem tečaju, kot je raca duo (račje prsi in naribana raca v maki zvitkih), četrta kot ovojnica iz belega tartufa (testenine s tartufi, ki obdajajo foie gras, z bujno kumquat mostardo na strani) in petina, podobna svinjskemu trebuhu s petimi okusi, vključno s toplim gorčičnim "sladoledom", stabiliziranim z zgoščevalcem metilceluloze.

Naš šesti in najboljši tečaj je ponudil težko izbiro med dvema zelo nežnima jedma: črno trsko v juhi, podobni kaši, med drugim s čudovito ostrim hrustljavim brstičnim ohrovtom ali jagnječjim epikom, mariniranim v harissi in medu ter kuhanim sous videjem, s sredozemskim spremljave, kot je kovan kozji jogurt, baba ghanouj in le en nepotreben razcvet, zobno boleča sladka piramida iz ohranjene limonine bombažne bonbone (milost!).

Za sladico je nepričakovana in osvežilna izbira sorbet iz kumaric-shiso, čeprav prihaja z drobci steklenih bonbonov yuzu-ingver, ki se pred taljenjem neprijetno prilepijo na zobe.

Molekularna gastronomija ni nova ideja. Na sceno je prišel pred desetletjem, deloma pa se je počasi ujel, ker je tako delovno intenziven-vsi ti geli, plasti in emulzije prispevajo k veliki pripravi osebja in visokim cenam na jedilniku-in v del zato, ker tudi prefinjeni gostje raje poznajo avantgardo. Venue, vrhunska restavracija v Hobokenu, ki se je leta 2005 odprla v precej ugodnejšem gospodarstvu, je trajala le eno leto.

Toda tako kot vsako živahno dejanje je lahko tudi to, ko mu to uspe, nepozabno, to je izkušnja, ki jo gospod Ghoshal pričakuje v Montclairju. Kot je v telefonskem intervjuju povedal gospod Achatz, kuhar iz Chicaga: "Bistvo je v tem, da se ustvari občutek" gee whiz ", čudenja. Želimo, da ljudje rečejo: 'Kako so se obnesli naredi to? '"


Kulinarični cirkus, sveže iz laboratorija

OBrok v mesečni restavraciji Adara je cirkus s tremi obroči-ali petimi obročki, ali sedmimi ali celo 12, odvisno od tega, koliko tečajev naročite.

Navdušite nad neverjetnim balonom iz mozzarelle! Nejeverno opazujte, kako se iz vašega guacamola dviga dim hikorija! Okusite peno "globokomorski veter"!

In cirkus morda ni edina analogija, ki se vam pojavi. Jedi v Adari s svojo bleščečo paleto rumenih in vijoličnih, zank in vrtinčic in zvezdnih izbruhov vas lahko spominjajo na platna na razstavi Matisse.

Ali bolj natančno, periodni sistem elementov. Tre Ghoshal, 30-letni kuhar in lastnik Adare, je v Montclair prinesel znanstvene tehnike in kemijsko-laboratorijsko opremo molekularne gastronomije, zahtevno avantgardno disciplino, ki jo je proslavil španski kuhar Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adarina kuhinja je napolnjena z aeratorji, dehidratorji, dimnimi pištolami, potopnimi obtoki in zlobnim instrumentom, imenovanim Anti-Griddle, ki zmrzne hrano, namesto da bi jo skuhala. Ta pena morskega vetra je gaziran sok školjk, restavracijski balon mozzarella v restavraciji, izum pionirskega kuharja iz Chicaga Grant Achatz, je narejen z razstreljevanjem ogljikovega dioksida v kroglico sirove skute.

G. Ghoshal (izgovorjen kot GOSH-ul) navaja oba kuharja kot navdih, skupaj z Wyliejem Dufresnejem iz WD-50 v Spodnjem Manhattnu, in ne skriva svojih ambicij, da bi se jim pridružil kot kulinarično ime. "Vem, da sem mlad," je dejal v nedavnem intervjuju, "vendar sem večji del svojega življenja preživel v kuhinji. Hočem Michelinove zvezdice. Pripravljen sem na to. "

Dejansko je hotel odpreti Adaro v New Yorku, vendar ni mogel zbrati sredstev. New Jerseyan, ki je imel prvo vrhunsko kuharsko službo v severni Kaliforniji, je bil izvršni kuhar v več restavracijah v svoji domovini, med drugim v Nouveau Sushiju tukaj v Montclairju-"mestu, ki se ukvarja s hrano", je dejal, da upa, bo imel dovolj pustolovskih obiskovalcev, da bo njegova nova restavracija postala hit.

Zgodnje donosnosti so bile mešane. Pred kratkim v četrtek zvečer, ko smo se oglasili pri Adari, da ne bi opravili celovitega pregleda, je bilo zapolnjenih le ducat od 52 Adarinih sedežev. "Montclair je ob delavnikih zelo težak," je dejal gospod Ghoshal.

Adara (sanskrtski izraz za spoštovanje in razširitev ljubezen) zaseda eleganten in udoben, če strog prostor, ki je bil Passionné. G. Ghoshal in njegova posadka so mu naredili popolno preobrazbo z zemeljskimi oblogami, stenami iz brunanega lesa in v kotu majhnim barom za samostojne večerje ali pare.

Restavracija nima licence za alkoholne pijače, zato pijače prinašajo svoje vino in neonsko osvetljeno paleto mocktails, kot je Zengria: zeleni čaj, limonska trava, zelišče kava kava in sladkorni bombaž yuzu.

Naša miza ni poskusila mocktails. Na krožnikih se je dogajalo marsikaj - če ne preveč.

Naročili smo "turnejo" s sedmimi hodi, pri 105 USD vsak tečaj ponuja izbiro dveh jedi, tako da sta dva večerjalca lahko preizkusila vseh 14. Izkazalo se je, da je to neverjetno množica nenavadno iznajdljivih izmišljotin, nikoli manj zabavna, ampak pogosto manj kot vsota njihovih delov.

Balon z mozzarello je bil na primer del jedi, imenovane Campania. Na njem so bile rezine brezhibnega, sladkega paradižnika iz dediščine in rožnata bazilika v balzamičnem kisu - brezčasna kombinacija, ki ni imela koristi niti od balona, ​​ki je imel približno teksturo gumijaste rokavice, niti od kroglice oljčnega olja, ki ni imela nobenega okusa njegove imenovane sestavine.

Takšne jedi so obenem tudi odlična hrana: želatina in bombažni bonboni ter siri in kremasti piškoti, ki krasijo številne Adarine jedi, vsebujejo veliko kalorij. "O, moj bog," je rekel sogovornik, potem ko je poliral kaznovalno bogato torto z modrim sirom Maytag, preplavljeno z zdrobljenimi orehi. "Prešli smo le dva tečaja!"

In to lahko oteži ohranitev osredotočenosti in apetita pri tretjem tečaju, kot je raca duo (račje prsi in naribana raca v maki zvitkih), četrta kot ovojnica iz belega tartufa (testenine s tartufi, ki obdajajo foie gras, z bujno kumquat mostardo na strani) in peti kot svinjski trebuh s petimi okusi, vključno s toplim gorčičnim "sladoledom", stabiliziranim z zgoščevalcem metilceluloze.

Naš šesti in najboljši tečaj je ponudil težko izbiro med dvema zelo nežnima jedma: črno trsko v juhi, podobni kaši, med drugim s čudovito ostrim hrustljavim brstičnim ohrovtom ali jagnječjim epikom, mariniranim v harissi in medu ter kuhanim sous videjem, s sredozemskim spremljave, kot je kovan kozji jogurt, baba ghanouj in le en nepotreben razcvet, zobno boleča sladka piramida iz ohranjene limonine bombažne bonbone (milost!).

Za sladico je nepričakovana in osvežilna izbira sorbet iz kumaric-shiso, čeprav prihaja z drobci steklenih bonbonov yuzu-ingver, ki se pred taljenjem neprijetno prilepijo na zobe.

Molekularna gastronomija ni nova ideja. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


A Culinary Circus, Fresh From the Lab

A MEAL at the month-old restaurant Adara is a three-ring circus — or five rings, or seven, or even 12, depending on how many courses you order.

Thrill to the amazing mozzarella balloon! Watch in disbelief as hickory smoke rises from your guacamole! Taste the “deep sea wind” foam!

And circus may not be the only analogy that occurs to you. The dishes at Adara, with their dazzling palette of yellows and purples, loops and swirls and starbursts, may remind you of canvases in a Matisse exhibition.

Or, more to the point, the periodic table of the elements. Tre Ghoshal, Adara’s 30-year-old chef and owner, has brought to Montclair the scientific techniques and chem-lab equipment of molecular gastronomy, the exacting avant-garde discipline made famous by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adara’s kitchen is filled with aerators, dehydrators, smoke guns, immersion circulators and a fiendish-sounding instrument called the Anti-Griddle, which flash-freezes food instead of cooking it. That sea-wind foam is aerated clam juice the restaurant’s mozzarella balloon, an invention of the pioneering Chicago chef Grant Achatz, is made by blasting carbon dioxide into a ball of cheese curd.

Mr. Ghoshal (pronounced GOSH-ul) cites both chefs as inspirations, along with Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in Lower Manhattan, and he makes no secret of his ambition to join them as a culinary household name. “I know I’m young,” he said in a recent interview, “but I’ve spent the better part of my life in the kitchen. I want Michelin stars. I’m ready for it.”

Indeed, he wanted to open Adara in New York but could not raise the financing. A New Jerseyan who had his first high-end cooking job in Northern California, he has been executive chef at several restaurants in his home state, including Nouveau Sushi here in Montclair — “a food-savvy town,” he said, that he hopes will have enough adventurous diners to make his new restaurant a hit.

The early returns have been mixed. On a recent Thursday evening when we dropped in to sample Adara’s fare — not to undertake an all-out review — only about a dozen of Adara’s 52 seats were filled. “Montclair is very tough on weekdays,” Mr. Ghoshal said.

Adara (a Sanskrit term for regard and by extension, love) occupies the elegant and comfortable if austere space that was Passionné. Mr. Ghoshal and his crew gave it a full-body makeover, with earth-tone wainscoted walls, burnished-wood floors and, in a corner, a small bar for solo diners or couples.

The restaurant has no liquor license, so the drinks are bring-your-own wine and a neon-lighted lineup of mocktails like the Zengria: green tea, lemongrass fizz, the herb kava kava, and yuzu cotton candy.

Our table did not try the mocktails. There was plenty going on — if not too much — on our plates.

We ordered the seven-course “tour,” at $105 each course offers a choice of two dishes, so two diners were able to sample all 14. It proved to be a head-spinning array of wildly inventive concoctions, never less than entertaining but often less than the sum of their parts.

The mozzarella balloon, for instance, was part of a dish called Campania. It featured slices of flawless, sweet heirloom tomato and a drizzling of basil in balsamic vinegar — a timeless combination that benefited neither from the balloon, which had the approximate texture of a rubber glove, nor from a ball of olive oil gelato that lacked any taste of its named ingredient.

Dishes like these are also a great deal of food, when all is said and done: the gelatos and cotton candies and cheeses and creamy bisques that adorn many of Adara’s dishes pack a lot of calories. “Oh, my God,” a fellow diner said after polishing off a punishingly rich cake of Maytag blue cheese layered with crumbled walnuts. “We’re only through two courses!”

And that can make it hard to keep one’s focus and appetite sharp for a third course like duo of duck (duck breast and shredded duck in maki rolls), a fourth like white truffle envelope (truffle pasta enclosing foie gras, with a rousing kumquat mostarda on the side) and a fifth like pork belly with five flavors, including a warm mustard “ice cream” stabilized with the thickener methylcellulose.

Our sixth and best course offered a tough choice between two very tender dishes: black cod in porridgelike kanji broth with, among other things, wonderfully sharp-tasting crisped Brussels sprouts or lamb épicé, marinated in harissa and honey and cooked sous vide, with Mediterranean accompaniments like minted goat yogurt, baba ghanouj and only one unnecessary flourish, a tooth-achingly sweet pyramid of preserved-lemon cotton candy (mercy!).

For dessert, an unexpected and refreshing choice is the cucumber-shiso sorbet, though it comes with shards of glasslike yuzu-ginger candy that stick disagreeably to the teeth before melting.

Molecular gastronomy is not a new idea. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


A Culinary Circus, Fresh From the Lab

A MEAL at the month-old restaurant Adara is a three-ring circus — or five rings, or seven, or even 12, depending on how many courses you order.

Thrill to the amazing mozzarella balloon! Watch in disbelief as hickory smoke rises from your guacamole! Taste the “deep sea wind” foam!

And circus may not be the only analogy that occurs to you. The dishes at Adara, with their dazzling palette of yellows and purples, loops and swirls and starbursts, may remind you of canvases in a Matisse exhibition.

Or, more to the point, the periodic table of the elements. Tre Ghoshal, Adara’s 30-year-old chef and owner, has brought to Montclair the scientific techniques and chem-lab equipment of molecular gastronomy, the exacting avant-garde discipline made famous by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adara’s kitchen is filled with aerators, dehydrators, smoke guns, immersion circulators and a fiendish-sounding instrument called the Anti-Griddle, which flash-freezes food instead of cooking it. That sea-wind foam is aerated clam juice the restaurant’s mozzarella balloon, an invention of the pioneering Chicago chef Grant Achatz, is made by blasting carbon dioxide into a ball of cheese curd.

Mr. Ghoshal (pronounced GOSH-ul) cites both chefs as inspirations, along with Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in Lower Manhattan, and he makes no secret of his ambition to join them as a culinary household name. “I know I’m young,” he said in a recent interview, “but I’ve spent the better part of my life in the kitchen. I want Michelin stars. I’m ready for it.”

Indeed, he wanted to open Adara in New York but could not raise the financing. A New Jerseyan who had his first high-end cooking job in Northern California, he has been executive chef at several restaurants in his home state, including Nouveau Sushi here in Montclair — “a food-savvy town,” he said, that he hopes will have enough adventurous diners to make his new restaurant a hit.

The early returns have been mixed. On a recent Thursday evening when we dropped in to sample Adara’s fare — not to undertake an all-out review — only about a dozen of Adara’s 52 seats were filled. “Montclair is very tough on weekdays,” Mr. Ghoshal said.

Adara (a Sanskrit term for regard and by extension, love) occupies the elegant and comfortable if austere space that was Passionné. Mr. Ghoshal and his crew gave it a full-body makeover, with earth-tone wainscoted walls, burnished-wood floors and, in a corner, a small bar for solo diners or couples.

The restaurant has no liquor license, so the drinks are bring-your-own wine and a neon-lighted lineup of mocktails like the Zengria: green tea, lemongrass fizz, the herb kava kava, and yuzu cotton candy.

Our table did not try the mocktails. There was plenty going on — if not too much — on our plates.

We ordered the seven-course “tour,” at $105 each course offers a choice of two dishes, so two diners were able to sample all 14. It proved to be a head-spinning array of wildly inventive concoctions, never less than entertaining but often less than the sum of their parts.

The mozzarella balloon, for instance, was part of a dish called Campania. It featured slices of flawless, sweet heirloom tomato and a drizzling of basil in balsamic vinegar — a timeless combination that benefited neither from the balloon, which had the approximate texture of a rubber glove, nor from a ball of olive oil gelato that lacked any taste of its named ingredient.

Dishes like these are also a great deal of food, when all is said and done: the gelatos and cotton candies and cheeses and creamy bisques that adorn many of Adara’s dishes pack a lot of calories. “Oh, my God,” a fellow diner said after polishing off a punishingly rich cake of Maytag blue cheese layered with crumbled walnuts. “We’re only through two courses!”

And that can make it hard to keep one’s focus and appetite sharp for a third course like duo of duck (duck breast and shredded duck in maki rolls), a fourth like white truffle envelope (truffle pasta enclosing foie gras, with a rousing kumquat mostarda on the side) and a fifth like pork belly with five flavors, including a warm mustard “ice cream” stabilized with the thickener methylcellulose.

Our sixth and best course offered a tough choice between two very tender dishes: black cod in porridgelike kanji broth with, among other things, wonderfully sharp-tasting crisped Brussels sprouts or lamb épicé, marinated in harissa and honey and cooked sous vide, with Mediterranean accompaniments like minted goat yogurt, baba ghanouj and only one unnecessary flourish, a tooth-achingly sweet pyramid of preserved-lemon cotton candy (mercy!).

For dessert, an unexpected and refreshing choice is the cucumber-shiso sorbet, though it comes with shards of glasslike yuzu-ginger candy that stick disagreeably to the teeth before melting.

Molecular gastronomy is not a new idea. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


A Culinary Circus, Fresh From the Lab

A MEAL at the month-old restaurant Adara is a three-ring circus — or five rings, or seven, or even 12, depending on how many courses you order.

Thrill to the amazing mozzarella balloon! Watch in disbelief as hickory smoke rises from your guacamole! Taste the “deep sea wind” foam!

And circus may not be the only analogy that occurs to you. The dishes at Adara, with their dazzling palette of yellows and purples, loops and swirls and starbursts, may remind you of canvases in a Matisse exhibition.

Or, more to the point, the periodic table of the elements. Tre Ghoshal, Adara’s 30-year-old chef and owner, has brought to Montclair the scientific techniques and chem-lab equipment of molecular gastronomy, the exacting avant-garde discipline made famous by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adara’s kitchen is filled with aerators, dehydrators, smoke guns, immersion circulators and a fiendish-sounding instrument called the Anti-Griddle, which flash-freezes food instead of cooking it. That sea-wind foam is aerated clam juice the restaurant’s mozzarella balloon, an invention of the pioneering Chicago chef Grant Achatz, is made by blasting carbon dioxide into a ball of cheese curd.

Mr. Ghoshal (pronounced GOSH-ul) cites both chefs as inspirations, along with Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in Lower Manhattan, and he makes no secret of his ambition to join them as a culinary household name. “I know I’m young,” he said in a recent interview, “but I’ve spent the better part of my life in the kitchen. I want Michelin stars. I’m ready for it.”

Indeed, he wanted to open Adara in New York but could not raise the financing. A New Jerseyan who had his first high-end cooking job in Northern California, he has been executive chef at several restaurants in his home state, including Nouveau Sushi here in Montclair — “a food-savvy town,” he said, that he hopes will have enough adventurous diners to make his new restaurant a hit.

The early returns have been mixed. On a recent Thursday evening when we dropped in to sample Adara’s fare — not to undertake an all-out review — only about a dozen of Adara’s 52 seats were filled. “Montclair is very tough on weekdays,” Mr. Ghoshal said.

Adara (a Sanskrit term for regard and by extension, love) occupies the elegant and comfortable if austere space that was Passionné. Mr. Ghoshal and his crew gave it a full-body makeover, with earth-tone wainscoted walls, burnished-wood floors and, in a corner, a small bar for solo diners or couples.

The restaurant has no liquor license, so the drinks are bring-your-own wine and a neon-lighted lineup of mocktails like the Zengria: green tea, lemongrass fizz, the herb kava kava, and yuzu cotton candy.

Our table did not try the mocktails. There was plenty going on — if not too much — on our plates.

We ordered the seven-course “tour,” at $105 each course offers a choice of two dishes, so two diners were able to sample all 14. It proved to be a head-spinning array of wildly inventive concoctions, never less than entertaining but often less than the sum of their parts.

The mozzarella balloon, for instance, was part of a dish called Campania. It featured slices of flawless, sweet heirloom tomato and a drizzling of basil in balsamic vinegar — a timeless combination that benefited neither from the balloon, which had the approximate texture of a rubber glove, nor from a ball of olive oil gelato that lacked any taste of its named ingredient.

Dishes like these are also a great deal of food, when all is said and done: the gelatos and cotton candies and cheeses and creamy bisques that adorn many of Adara’s dishes pack a lot of calories. “Oh, my God,” a fellow diner said after polishing off a punishingly rich cake of Maytag blue cheese layered with crumbled walnuts. “We’re only through two courses!”

And that can make it hard to keep one’s focus and appetite sharp for a third course like duo of duck (duck breast and shredded duck in maki rolls), a fourth like white truffle envelope (truffle pasta enclosing foie gras, with a rousing kumquat mostarda on the side) and a fifth like pork belly with five flavors, including a warm mustard “ice cream” stabilized with the thickener methylcellulose.

Our sixth and best course offered a tough choice between two very tender dishes: black cod in porridgelike kanji broth with, among other things, wonderfully sharp-tasting crisped Brussels sprouts or lamb épicé, marinated in harissa and honey and cooked sous vide, with Mediterranean accompaniments like minted goat yogurt, baba ghanouj and only one unnecessary flourish, a tooth-achingly sweet pyramid of preserved-lemon cotton candy (mercy!).

For dessert, an unexpected and refreshing choice is the cucumber-shiso sorbet, though it comes with shards of glasslike yuzu-ginger candy that stick disagreeably to the teeth before melting.

Molecular gastronomy is not a new idea. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


A Culinary Circus, Fresh From the Lab

A MEAL at the month-old restaurant Adara is a three-ring circus — or five rings, or seven, or even 12, depending on how many courses you order.

Thrill to the amazing mozzarella balloon! Watch in disbelief as hickory smoke rises from your guacamole! Taste the “deep sea wind” foam!

And circus may not be the only analogy that occurs to you. The dishes at Adara, with their dazzling palette of yellows and purples, loops and swirls and starbursts, may remind you of canvases in a Matisse exhibition.

Or, more to the point, the periodic table of the elements. Tre Ghoshal, Adara’s 30-year-old chef and owner, has brought to Montclair the scientific techniques and chem-lab equipment of molecular gastronomy, the exacting avant-garde discipline made famous by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adara’s kitchen is filled with aerators, dehydrators, smoke guns, immersion circulators and a fiendish-sounding instrument called the Anti-Griddle, which flash-freezes food instead of cooking it. That sea-wind foam is aerated clam juice the restaurant’s mozzarella balloon, an invention of the pioneering Chicago chef Grant Achatz, is made by blasting carbon dioxide into a ball of cheese curd.

Mr. Ghoshal (pronounced GOSH-ul) cites both chefs as inspirations, along with Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in Lower Manhattan, and he makes no secret of his ambition to join them as a culinary household name. “I know I’m young,” he said in a recent interview, “but I’ve spent the better part of my life in the kitchen. I want Michelin stars. I’m ready for it.”

Indeed, he wanted to open Adara in New York but could not raise the financing. A New Jerseyan who had his first high-end cooking job in Northern California, he has been executive chef at several restaurants in his home state, including Nouveau Sushi here in Montclair — “a food-savvy town,” he said, that he hopes will have enough adventurous diners to make his new restaurant a hit.

The early returns have been mixed. On a recent Thursday evening when we dropped in to sample Adara’s fare — not to undertake an all-out review — only about a dozen of Adara’s 52 seats were filled. “Montclair is very tough on weekdays,” Mr. Ghoshal said.

Adara (a Sanskrit term for regard and by extension, love) occupies the elegant and comfortable if austere space that was Passionné. Mr. Ghoshal and his crew gave it a full-body makeover, with earth-tone wainscoted walls, burnished-wood floors and, in a corner, a small bar for solo diners or couples.

The restaurant has no liquor license, so the drinks are bring-your-own wine and a neon-lighted lineup of mocktails like the Zengria: green tea, lemongrass fizz, the herb kava kava, and yuzu cotton candy.

Our table did not try the mocktails. There was plenty going on — if not too much — on our plates.

We ordered the seven-course “tour,” at $105 each course offers a choice of two dishes, so two diners were able to sample all 14. It proved to be a head-spinning array of wildly inventive concoctions, never less than entertaining but often less than the sum of their parts.

The mozzarella balloon, for instance, was part of a dish called Campania. It featured slices of flawless, sweet heirloom tomato and a drizzling of basil in balsamic vinegar — a timeless combination that benefited neither from the balloon, which had the approximate texture of a rubber glove, nor from a ball of olive oil gelato that lacked any taste of its named ingredient.

Dishes like these are also a great deal of food, when all is said and done: the gelatos and cotton candies and cheeses and creamy bisques that adorn many of Adara’s dishes pack a lot of calories. “Oh, my God,” a fellow diner said after polishing off a punishingly rich cake of Maytag blue cheese layered with crumbled walnuts. “We’re only through two courses!”

And that can make it hard to keep one’s focus and appetite sharp for a third course like duo of duck (duck breast and shredded duck in maki rolls), a fourth like white truffle envelope (truffle pasta enclosing foie gras, with a rousing kumquat mostarda on the side) and a fifth like pork belly with five flavors, including a warm mustard “ice cream” stabilized with the thickener methylcellulose.

Our sixth and best course offered a tough choice between two very tender dishes: black cod in porridgelike kanji broth with, among other things, wonderfully sharp-tasting crisped Brussels sprouts or lamb épicé, marinated in harissa and honey and cooked sous vide, with Mediterranean accompaniments like minted goat yogurt, baba ghanouj and only one unnecessary flourish, a tooth-achingly sweet pyramid of preserved-lemon cotton candy (mercy!).

For dessert, an unexpected and refreshing choice is the cucumber-shiso sorbet, though it comes with shards of glasslike yuzu-ginger candy that stick disagreeably to the teeth before melting.

Molecular gastronomy is not a new idea. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


A Culinary Circus, Fresh From the Lab

A MEAL at the month-old restaurant Adara is a three-ring circus — or five rings, or seven, or even 12, depending on how many courses you order.

Thrill to the amazing mozzarella balloon! Watch in disbelief as hickory smoke rises from your guacamole! Taste the “deep sea wind” foam!

And circus may not be the only analogy that occurs to you. The dishes at Adara, with their dazzling palette of yellows and purples, loops and swirls and starbursts, may remind you of canvases in a Matisse exhibition.

Or, more to the point, the periodic table of the elements. Tre Ghoshal, Adara’s 30-year-old chef and owner, has brought to Montclair the scientific techniques and chem-lab equipment of molecular gastronomy, the exacting avant-garde discipline made famous by the Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.

Slika

Adara’s kitchen is filled with aerators, dehydrators, smoke guns, immersion circulators and a fiendish-sounding instrument called the Anti-Griddle, which flash-freezes food instead of cooking it. That sea-wind foam is aerated clam juice the restaurant’s mozzarella balloon, an invention of the pioneering Chicago chef Grant Achatz, is made by blasting carbon dioxide into a ball of cheese curd.

Mr. Ghoshal (pronounced GOSH-ul) cites both chefs as inspirations, along with Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in Lower Manhattan, and he makes no secret of his ambition to join them as a culinary household name. “I know I’m young,” he said in a recent interview, “but I’ve spent the better part of my life in the kitchen. I want Michelin stars. I’m ready for it.”

Indeed, he wanted to open Adara in New York but could not raise the financing. A New Jerseyan who had his first high-end cooking job in Northern California, he has been executive chef at several restaurants in his home state, including Nouveau Sushi here in Montclair — “a food-savvy town,” he said, that he hopes will have enough adventurous diners to make his new restaurant a hit.

The early returns have been mixed. On a recent Thursday evening when we dropped in to sample Adara’s fare — not to undertake an all-out review — only about a dozen of Adara’s 52 seats were filled. “Montclair is very tough on weekdays,” Mr. Ghoshal said.

Adara (a Sanskrit term for regard and by extension, love) occupies the elegant and comfortable if austere space that was Passionné. Mr. Ghoshal and his crew gave it a full-body makeover, with earth-tone wainscoted walls, burnished-wood floors and, in a corner, a small bar for solo diners or couples.

The restaurant has no liquor license, so the drinks are bring-your-own wine and a neon-lighted lineup of mocktails like the Zengria: green tea, lemongrass fizz, the herb kava kava, and yuzu cotton candy.

Our table did not try the mocktails. There was plenty going on — if not too much — on our plates.

We ordered the seven-course “tour,” at $105 each course offers a choice of two dishes, so two diners were able to sample all 14. It proved to be a head-spinning array of wildly inventive concoctions, never less than entertaining but often less than the sum of their parts.

The mozzarella balloon, for instance, was part of a dish called Campania. It featured slices of flawless, sweet heirloom tomato and a drizzling of basil in balsamic vinegar — a timeless combination that benefited neither from the balloon, which had the approximate texture of a rubber glove, nor from a ball of olive oil gelato that lacked any taste of its named ingredient.

Dishes like these are also a great deal of food, when all is said and done: the gelatos and cotton candies and cheeses and creamy bisques that adorn many of Adara’s dishes pack a lot of calories. “Oh, my God,” a fellow diner said after polishing off a punishingly rich cake of Maytag blue cheese layered with crumbled walnuts. “We’re only through two courses!”

And that can make it hard to keep one’s focus and appetite sharp for a third course like duo of duck (duck breast and shredded duck in maki rolls), a fourth like white truffle envelope (truffle pasta enclosing foie gras, with a rousing kumquat mostarda on the side) and a fifth like pork belly with five flavors, including a warm mustard “ice cream” stabilized with the thickener methylcellulose.

Our sixth and best course offered a tough choice between two very tender dishes: black cod in porridgelike kanji broth with, among other things, wonderfully sharp-tasting crisped Brussels sprouts or lamb épicé, marinated in harissa and honey and cooked sous vide, with Mediterranean accompaniments like minted goat yogurt, baba ghanouj and only one unnecessary flourish, a tooth-achingly sweet pyramid of preserved-lemon cotton candy (mercy!).

For dessert, an unexpected and refreshing choice is the cucumber-shiso sorbet, though it comes with shards of glasslike yuzu-ginger candy that stick disagreeably to the teeth before melting.

Molecular gastronomy is not a new idea. It broke onto the scene a decade ago, and it has been slow to catch on in part because it is so labor-intensive — all those gels and layers and emulsions add up to a lot of staff preparation, and high menu prices — and in part because even sophisticated diners tend to prefer the familiar to the avant-garde. Venue, a cutting-edge restaurant in Hoboken that opened in a much more favorable economy in 2005, lasted just a year.

But like any high-wire act, when it succeeds it can be unforgettable that is the experience Mr. Ghoshal is hoping to provide in Montclair. As Mr. Achatz, the Chicago chef, put it in a telephone interview: “The point is to build a sense of ‘gee whiz,’ of wonder. We want people to say, ‘How did they naredi that?’ ”


Poglej si posnetek: Cooking with Karine: Duck with Chef Marek (Maj 2022).